DAY 1
Châteauneuf-du-Pape loop walk; 5 miles, easy, 330-ft elevation gain and loss. Cuvée du Vatican Domaine visit and wine tasting
Your walking exploration of Provence begins in
Avignon; this picturesque and historical city on the
banks of the Rhône River is easily reached by rail
and equally simple to explore on foot. Shortly after
meeting your guide(s), you set off for the nearby
town of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, source of the
renowned wine of the same name. Literally
translating as the “new castle of the pope,” this was
the site of the pope’s summer retreat when the seat of the papacy was moved to Avignon from Rome in
the 14th century. From the hilltop town, views
extend over thousands of acres of vines, originally
brought here during the papal period, as well as
over the Rhône valley, Avignon, and the Lubéron
Mountains, providing an excellent visual
introduction to the week’s itinerary. Your walk is
on undulating back roads used only by the locals to
work the surrounding vineyards and trails linking
three estates, each with a different character.
Following a picnic lunch, you make your way
to Cuvée du Vatican, one of the 55 producers of the
Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, where you stop
for a tour to learn more about its cultivation and
classification. Later in the afternoon, you arrive in
Vaison-la-Romaine, your home for the next three
nights. Your hotel is located in the heart of its
medieval center, the “haute ville,” with its castle
ruins, perched on a cliff above the river Ouvèze.
Along the river bank on the opposite side is the
lower town with remains of the original Roman
settlement—one of France’s most important Gallo-
Roman archaeological sites.
A welcome apéritif awaits in the cozy living
room, perhaps a chilled pastis, the anise-flavored
drink of the South of France, accompanied by
locally-grown olives. Dinner is a medley of
Provencal cuisine, flavored by a true Mediterranean
blend of olive oil, herbes de Provence, and tomatoes.
L’Hostellerie Le Beffroi, Vaison-la-Romaine
DAY 2
Vaison-la-Romaine guided tour and market. Col de la Chaîne loop walk; 5 miles, easy to moderate, 980-ft elevation gain and loss
Vaison-la-Romaine is known for a plethora of
outdoor markets set up in its squares throughout
the year, offering the bounty of the nearby farms
and hillsides, seasonal fruits and vegetables, as well
as local specialties such as jars of truffles, lavenderinfused
honey, or olive tapenades. After breakfast at
the hotel, you stroll the narrow streets of the town
and discover its highlights accompanied by a local
guide. There is time for you to make your way to
one of these markets, where you are free to explore
on your own and may choose local delicacies for
your independent lunch—perhaps a bit of Picodon
goat cheese and a fragrant olive “fougasse,” a flat
loaf similar to foccaccia. Alternatively, you can visit
parts of the archaeological site or museum before
reuniting with your group.
Your marketing or visit complete, a short drive
takes you to the start of the afternoon’s walk in the
Saint Amand range. Traversing green oak forests
and terraced fields, the route passes by mas,
traditional stone farm houses, and offers splendid
views of fertile valleys, vineyards, rocky spires, and
Mont Ventoux. Mont Ventoux is best known for its
occasional appearance in the Tour de France and its
daunting reputation even amongst the most
seasoned professional cyclists—at just over 6,000
feet with a 7.5-percent gradient over 13 miles of
switch backs to the summit. This mountain is one
of Provence’s central geographical and cultural
landmarks, known to have been climbed and
celebrated as early as the 13th century by the
Italian poet Petrarch. Today its treeless summit
attracts outdoor enthusiasts in all seasons, from
walkers and hikers, to cyclists and skiers.
Dinner this evening is at the hotel’s restaurant,
where you may start with delicately prepared fish
or seafood, and perhaps followed by lamb flavored
with the same herbs that dotted the path of today’s
walk.
L’Hostellerie Le Beffroi, Vaison-la-Romaine
DAY 3
Gigondas loop via Dentelles de Montmirail; 7.5 miles, moderate, 1,000-ft elevation gain and loss, including a short, steep ascent at the beginning
Fortified with excellent coffee and buttery
croissants with jams, you begin the morning’s
outing with a 20-minute drive to the town of
Gigondas. Another medieval gem, Gigondas is
synonymous with the red wine grown in the
shadow of the low chain of mountains known as the Dentelles de Montmirail, named for their lacelike
profile. Among its yellow stone buildings is
the medieval castle, which became a hospice in the
17th century. The five-mile-long Dentelles range
is perfect for walking. An extensive trail network
branches out from Gigondas, whose name is
derived from jocunditas, the Roman word for joy,
perhaps from the region’s beauty and wine,
produced here since Roman times.
The walk starts with an invigorating ascent
and loops through the hillside vineyards and
Aleppo pines, opening onto dramatic views of the
lacy limestone ridges eroded into sharp points and
crests. As the trail continues to Châteauneuf de
Redortier, you slowly discover what makes Côtes
du Rhône wines unique and learn about the
concept of terroir. A picnic spread in the shade
overlooking the landscape features mixed salads
with ripe vegetables, crusty bread, creamy cheeses,
or cold cuts.
Returning to Vaison-la-Romaine, the rest of
the day is yours to design. An evening stroll
through the car-free streets may bring you past the
elegant facades of 18th-century “hotels particuliers”
or private palaces, as well as boutiques brimming
with the rich colors and designs of Provence’s
signature fabrics, and lavender. A square with one
of the town’s many fountains could be the perfect
place for an apéritif before moving on to a
restaurant of your choosing, as the relaxed pace of
life in the South of France takes hold.
L’Hostellerie Le Beffroi, Vaison-la-Romaine
DAY 4
Transfer to the Lubéron region. Gordes to Abbaye de Sénanque loop; 6.2 miles, easy-moderate, 650-ft elevation gain and loss. Roussillon visit
Now at the midpoint of the trip, you move south
to the Lubéron region of Provence. The landscape
is comprised of the Petit Lubéron and Grand
Lubéron mountain ranges and ridge-top medieval
villages contrasting with open plains, creating a
mosaic of subtle shades of earth and stone,
cultivated fields, orchards, and open meadows.
After a drive of approximately one hour, you reach
the stunning perched village of Gordes, included
in the listing of the “Plus Beaux Villages de France”
(“The Most Beautiful Villages in France”).
Inspiration to artists over the past century such as
Marc Chagall, its cobbled streets rise in terraces to
the castle at its center. The day’s loop walk follows
a path from Gordes to the Abbaye de Sénanque, a
12th-century Cistercian abbey situated in the
Sénanque Valley, amid oak groves and lavender
fields. A small community of Cistercian monks
continues to live and work in this tranquil place.
Reaching the end of the trail and back in the
village of Gordes, you are free to peruse the shops
and select a café for lunch on your own.
The afternoon unfolds with a stop in the town
of Roussillon. As indicated by its name in French,
the underlying stone is a warm orange-red ochre
that colors buildings, rocks, and outcroppings.
The final destination of the day is Saignon, the
location of your hotel for the next three nights—an
untrammeled perched village along the Grand
Lubéron range overlooking the Calavon Valley.
From its heights, views extend over the Lubéron
Mountains and plains, and in clear weather to
Mont Ventoux and the Alps of Haute Provence.
You may choose to unwind in the hotel’s courtyard
before moving on to a dinner of regional
specialties, for instance daube de boeuf (Provencal
beef stew) or aiöli complet (a mélange of vegetables
and seafood with a creamy garlic side sauce),
possibly finished with a tangy lemon tart.
L’Auberge Du Presbytère, Saignon
DAY 5
Colorado Provençal; 6.2 miles, easy to moderate, 650-ft elevation gain and loss
Breakfast is served in the shade of the winter
garden, and includes preserves accompanying
viennoiseries, fueling you for the morning walk in
the “Colorado Provençal.” A short drive (20
minutes) returns you to the reddish-toned landscape similar to the one in Roussillon and a
walk through former ochre quarries near Rustrel.
In contrast to the white limestone found elsewhere
in Provence, here the rich tones are a result of high
clay content, and consequently rosemary and
thyme give way to taller twisting pines and high
broom shrub. A network of paths crisscross this
valley, which has been carved into fantastic shapes
and gorges by the Doa stream over the centuries,
thus compared in name to the geology of the
American West. You stop for a delightful picnic
lunch in the heart of this magical landscape before
heading back to Saignon with time to stroll its
narrow alleyways, or perhaps enjoy a swim.
Dinner this evening is quite special—you are
invited to join organic vegetable farmers in their
lovely home. Tucked in the countryside near
Saignon, your hosts’ gardens are overflowing with
produce typically grown in the region—herbs,
tomatoes, zucchini, and eggplant, but also vintage
vegetables no longer widely available. A stroll
through the lush beds whets your appetite for
dinner, served on their shaded terrace.
L'Auberge Du Presbytère, Saignon
DAY 6
Goult to Bonnieux via Lacoste; 6.8 miles, easy to moderate, 820-ft elevation gain and 500-ft elevation loss
A full final day of walking through classic Lubéron
villages and countryside begins with a short drive
(20 minutes) to Goult. Nestled on a hilltop, rather
than dramatically perched like some of the
neighboring towns, this peaceful village was part
of the fiefdom of the Agoult family in the Middle
Ages and had an important royal glassworks. You
can stroll past its 13th-century castle before
starting on a route leading to the village of Lacoste.
Here you wander under white stone arches, along
cobbled lanes, perhaps into galleries, and continue
on to lunch on a terrace boasting stunning views.
Descending along Lacoste’s ancient walls, the
trail again winds through a combination of
cultivated and wild landscape; portions of open
forest are in the Parc Naturel Régional du Lubéron,
the regional natural park founded in 1977 to
preserve the unique surrounding flora and fauna.
Here, rabbits, numerous birds, and even wild boar
roam through thick cedar forest. Continuing on
past orchards and bories, traditional stone farmer’s
huts, the trail concludes at the county seat of
Bonnieux. With archaeological evidence from as
early as the Bronze Age, the first formal settlement
was established by the Romans in the 1st century
AD. In the Middle Ages Bonnieux was raised to
higher ground for defensive purposes, and ramparts
and superb residences remain, testament to its
strategic position in the region. The day’s walk
concludes in its labyrinth of alleyways and shaded
lanes, overlooked by the combination Romanesque
and Gothic “Eglise Haute, “ or High Church, before
boarding the van for the short drive back to
Saignon.
A final celebratory dinner takes place at your
hotel’s nearby sister property where you can relax
with an apéritif while observing the chef as she
prepares dinner in the open kitchen. You toast your
new friends with a glass of local wine and celebrate
the bounty of the region one last time.
L’Auberge Du Presbytère, Saignon
DAY 7
Departure
After a leisurely breakfast the trip comes to a close
with a one-hour drive to Avignon, where you can
make connections for further explorations in
Provence or travel to other destinations.
Itinerary Changes:
Please bear in mind that this is a typical itinerary, and the actual walks and sites may vary due to season, special events, or weather. We reserve the right to alter the itinerary since tour arrangements are made up to a year in advance, and unforeseen circumstances that mandate change may arise. Itinerary changes are made to improve the tour and your experience.